Global Surfers surf travel spot guide with wave swell forecasts

Type

Hollow barreling 

Direction

left and right 

Suitable for

Intermediate 

Lenght of ride

short 

Crowds

a normal crowd 

Localism

Average 

Best wind direction

all directions  

Tide

all 

Hazards

Scoops from about 5 metres deep to about 1 metre 

Description

Well normally it is a swimmers beach. No real size at all for stand up riders unless South East winds have been bringing in swells from the South. The part that makes this spot so enjoyable to me is during Australia's cyclone season or when a low perssure system moves over the coast, the place gets anywhere from 6-10' with massive phat barrels and bowls. The way this happens is, the ocean floor is extremely screwed up hehe. In most cases, you can walk out to the break point without the water going over your lower ribcage. But all of a sudden, it drops down to untouchable depths when standing (about 3 metres or so. You will see the set break on the reef about 700 metres offshore and that is your cue to get ready. You will see the waves disappear and the ocean go flat again. Then next thing you know, water starts sucking out and you start dropping as the water rises further out the back. Don't ever take the first 2 waves of the set, it will lead to much pain from getting hounded by the rest and everyone else gets real excited and goes for them. Use the first 2 waves to pick you line, then take the third. Prepare for a steep drop because the wave suddenly sucks out of no where and doesn't give much time to paddle onto it. Get your position as soon as you can and take the line fast. You should be getting barreled by the time you complete the bottom turn. Stick to your line and get ready to pull a massive duckout if the wave closes out, or to get spat out into shallow water. The lips are thick and if you get caught in one, you will get driven hard into the sand (which is thankfully mostly soft). Wear a rashvest cuz you will probably have a few sand scrapes in the session. There are also rocks on the bottom as you get close to the peer and only extremely experienced waveriders and locals dare to take that spot. Up the beach is a great fish and chip shop too. They do great deals hehe :-)