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RE: Localism attitude« on: May 18 2006 22:05:00 »
Aloha TTB, ya man, jus turn 60, but still feelin' pretty good, even w/ hip replacement and quad bypass, I still get out to surf Da Bu, Dume, Zuma, Rincon but it's gettin' harder to paddle my classic 1968 Hanson Masters, so I let the kids ride it. Nose rides like a muthah f'ker...got a board for free a few years back from friends Robbie Dick and Jimmy Ganzer (for advertising logo) and it's tri-fin 9'6" and fast...not as good a noserider though, need a 10'6" for floatation, i'm great when up but harder to push up 195lbs instead of former 160...gotta get in bettah shape.
RE: Localism attitude« Reply #1 on: May 18 2006 22:05:00 »
I still go back to Hawaii but i guess most of locals back off since they're surprised i can even surf at all. My LG mentor was Tom Zahn and, as you may know, his was Tom Blake. I actually think localism has gotten worse...love to do a doc film on it...what'ya tink brah?
RE: Localism attitude« Reply #2 on: May 19 2006 06:05:00 »
Tom Blake - an original waterman, they don't make them like that anymore. He probably did more to advance surfing than anyone back then, except maybe Duke Kahanamoku. He resurrected the old style Hawaiian boards, built hollow boards, invented the skeg...etc. And he was totally accepted and welcomed by the Hawaiian locals.
I've always wondered what it was like to ride such huge and heavy boards. It almost makes me want to cut down a wili-wili tree and carve one out. But, too much time and effort, it will never happen.
RE: Localism attitude« Reply #3 on: May 19 2006 06:05:00 »
As far as your localism documentary, it can probably be sifted down to one thing, too many surfers for the resources, no matter where in the world it occurs, that is the one unifying thread. IMO.
I think when the younger guys see us old timers out there, they don't hassle us because who gains anything by beating down an old fart. One advantage to gray hair.
Yeah, probably the only advantage when surfing, cause for sure, my pop up has kinda pooped out. But I still struggle to my feet and can handle myself in the waves surprisingly well. I'm still stoked by surfing and will be forever. That is the main idea in my mind, when it isn't fun anymore then it's time to quit. But I love it, so I'm still at it.
RE: Localism attitude« Reply #4 on: May 19 2006 06:05:00 »
One more thing. I'm really impressed by what the younger surfers can do today. Their moves and skills far surpass anything we ever tried to do back in the day. Surfing has advanced due to technology, sure, but the things these kids try, and pull off, amaze me.
RE: Localism attitude« Reply #5 on: May 20 2006 05:05:00 »
Yea T...know what you mean...no fun paddling in large surf anymore, or getting caught in impact zone...used 2B able to hold my breath all day...not now...still, i'd love to try tow in on small big surf, say 10'-15'...or even 6' Hawaiian cause i'm fine once I get up...can still walk to nose, do good cutbacks, turns...paddling & get ups are the killer and holding breath if caught inside...& yes, the kids are doing great stuff, lots of air, but i can't help think we could have done same if we had the thrusters for a few years when we were grommets, esp. the gymnasts...
RE: Localism attitude« Reply #6 on: May 20 2006 05:05:00 »
but hey, i remember Ron Sizemore coming from behind to win the Huntington contest in early 60's when he went left into the pier, walked to the tip and turned backwards, hanging heals as he went thru the pier...never seen a crowd react as one, going crazy for long time...& localism? maybe we should all just stick to our own beach?...naaaw!
RE: Localism attitude« Reply #7 on: March 09 2007 13:03:00 »
I'm visiting Hawaii for the first time this spring. Because I'm so excited about my first trip to the beautiful islands, I've been researching to see what is in store for me. I stumbled upon all these forums and have come across nasty attitudes from locals. I can't believe there are such cocky people on these islands that are said to be "paradise." This state thrives and ultimately survives on TOURISM. Locals should be thankful and gracious when we come pour money into their state. If we didn't, they wouldn't have a "pot to piss in" or should I say "an ocean to surf on"
Looking forward to my trip still. It has to be better than snow!
RE: Localism attitude« Reply #8 on: March 13 2007 06:03:00 »
Walk a mile in their rubbah slippahs and then talk about their attitude. Maybe you will gain a respect for what they go through. It's easy for you to say what you said, but you have not experienced the loss of paradise like they have. Kama'aina, man of the land... that is a good start for you to try to grasp their attitude about what they had and what they have to deal with today. Respect runs very deep for all Hawaiians: Respect for each other, for the islands and for the spiritual breath that holds the islands as a unit. Hint: they had a kingdom about a hundred years ago and that was taken away by force of guns. Now they are a stranger in their own land, their way of life gone forever unless they assume responsibility for it themselves. That's what it is all about.
RE: Localism attitude« Reply #9 on: March 13 2007 06:03:00 »
BTW, have a great time on your trip. Most Hawaiians are good people and will be friendly to you. You get what you give. Aloha.